Challenger Rotax 582 Installation
Section 3
Installing the Radiator Hoses and Fittings and Exhaust Manifold
Tools required:
Metric Wrenches, Imperial Wrenches, Utility Knife, Blue LocTite, Slotted and Phillips Screwdrivers, Metric Allen Wrenches, small Tie Wraps, Tape Measure.
Note: Skip steps 12,13, and 14 for engines equipped with the Sheer Tech cold weather Challenger heater option. The hose here will get connected to the the barbed fittings on the heater box before returning to the radiator assembly. Go to Step 15 if you have the Sheer Tech heater option. This is because the hose arrangement is different when installing the heater.
Step 12
Using a 5mm Allen wrench, remove the large hose elbow at the bottom left side of the engine directly below the slide valve reservoir assembly and between the angle brackets that guide the spark plug cables. Note that the thermostat assembly is installed just under this flanged elbow assembly. Do no disturb it. If it comes loose or falls out, put it back just the way it came. (See picture: 582-figure-014a)
This elbow must be changed from pointing downward to pointing toward the rear of the engine towards the drive shaft. A double flanged adaptor is included in the kit to accomplish this transition. It has two flanges welded together at about 90 degrees apart. Install the transition flange adaptor where the elbow was removed using the same bolts and some Blue LocTite. No gasket is required here because the rubber around the thermostat seals the flange face to the engine face.
Step 13
Cut out the gasket for the flange face of the transition adaptor. Re-install the original elbow adaptor onto the transition adaptor with the gasket between the two flange faces and with the elbow facing towards the rear of the engine. Use 2 of the 1-1/8” long bolts with washers and lock nuts. It requires a pair of 7/16” wrenches. (See picture: 582-figure-014)
Step 14
Install the long “S” shaped hose onto the elbow and clamp it with a worm drive clamp. The large end of the hose assembly with face up and to the rear of the engine. Cover then end of the hose with duct tape to prevent debris from entering there. Later, after the engine is installed on the aircraft, this hose will attach to the rear end of the radiator. (See picture: 582-figure-015)
Step 15
Install the shorter “L” shaped hose assembly onto the large “T” barb fitting located on the right side of the engine above the exhaust manifolds. Clamp it with a worm drive clamp. Cover then end of the hose with duct tape to prevent debris from entering there. Put the 2 remaining large worm drive clamps snugly on the open end of these two hose assemblies for use later and to prevent them from being lost. (See picture: 582-figure-016)
Step 16
Install the 2 large “L” shaped muffler mounting brackets on to the right side of the engine with the feet facing inwards towards each other. Use the four M8 x 1.25 thread x 25mm long socket head cap screws with lock washers and Blue LocTite. These are found in the bag in the muffler mounting kit. Use a 6mm Allen hex wrench. One of the 2 muffler mounting brackets has a round section cut out of it. This allows it to accommodate the hose on the front end of the engine, therefore, mount that one on the front end. (See picture: 582-figure-017)
Install the 2 “U” shaped muffler mount brackets on the end of the large “L” shaped brackets with the 4 round rubber spacers inside the “U” bracket. Mount them by passing the 1-2/3” AN bolt through the U bracket and rubber spacers. These bolts should point towards the rear of the engine. Use a pair of 7/16” wrenches. Do not over tighten. Do not squish the rubber spacers. We will be removing and re-installing these later in order to install the muffler. (See picture: 582-figure-018)
Step 17
Install the first section of exhaust manifold to the flanged exhaust ports of the engine. This is the “Y” shaped section of the muffler assembly that joins the to exhaust paths into one. Use the 2 rectangular gaskets to seal the flanges between the exhaust ports and the “Y” shaped manifold. Use the six M8 x 1.25 thread x 30mm metric socket head cap screws and 6 lock washers. Put a dab of Blue LocTite on each bolt. (See picture: 582-figure-019)
Note: The “Y” shaped manifold section should be mounted so that the 2 ports for the EGT senders are facing up. These two female threaded ports are located in the two branches of the “Y” coming from the exhaust ports and have screws placed in them at the factory.
Two of the 8 threaded holes on the inside bottom of the exhaust manifold are too cramped to suit the long socket head mounting bolts. These can be left unused or you may wish to go to a hardware store and buy 2 short metric hex head bolts (not socket head cap screws like the other 6) to install here. These bolts have a coarse metric thread. They are M8 x 1.25 pitch and 16mm long. Longer bolts will not fit around the manifold. They will also need to have a small 12mm sized hex head in order to fit into this tight area. Use a M8 lock washer and some Blue LocTite. (See picture: 582-figure-020)
Step 18
Remove the 2 slot head screws from the 2 branches of the exhaust manifold. Install your 2 EGT sender probes into these threaded holes. Use the gaskets from the 2 screws you removed to seal the threads if gaskets are not included with the EGT probes.
Usually the EGT sender probe consists of a compression style fitting with a compression nut. The probe is inserted through the fitting and clamped in place with
the compression nut. Use a 7/16” wrench to install the sender fitting and a 13mm wrench to tighten the nut. Do not over tighten this nut. (See picture: 582-figure-021)
Note: The tightening torque for the EGT probes is 177 in. lb torque (just over 14 foot pounds) or 20 Nm. (see page 20-2 of the Rotax Installation Manual.)
Another style of EGT sender consists of a long threaded body (M8 x 1.0 thread) with a long spring type wire strain relief. It gets threaded into the hole in the exhaust manifold and held in place with a jam nut. Use a dab of Blue LocTite on the threads to ensure they do not come loose.
Note: Make sure the 2 sender probes extend down into the manifold an equal distance. This will ensure that the 2 readings will be evenly matched. Otherwise they may read differently just because of the different probe insertion distances.
Tie off the sender wires with tie wraps for neatness and so that they will not get in the way for the remainder of the installation process.
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